원정 개요

BC at normal site
C2 (biggest camp - almost ABC).

After 9th April was snowstorm and must fix 150m on 60-degree glacier and cross avalanche area first; between 2 and 3 was most technical part of climb. From C3 alpine-style since acclimatization good and original plan was to have 2 fixed camps. Difficulties above C2 and took 7-8 hrs to reach 6100m. 3 members up to 6500m on 1 May and 2 others went up a day earlier and join them at 6500m on 1 May. 5 members up together to 7500m on 5th May. 6th May 1 member was tired so Petter & Starke down and Starke fell from 7000m and Petter leading and heard Starke call out behind him, turned and saw Starke slip to 7000m; 1 hr later Petter reached him but he died half hour later despite Petter's effort to bring him out of unconsciousness and got frostbitten fingers. Left body in biv sack in snow.

7th May 3 members to summit: started at 6 am and on top at 1:10 pm, stayed 20 mins and then started down. Zunk at 7750m at 4 pm fell, was last of trio coming to biv at 7700m and reason for fall not known. Now snowstorm; next morning could not find body on great wall. Others on 8th moved up to bring down 3 who needed help and no more summit plans.

42 days at BC and above - 40 days snowfall.