원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 just below North Col
C2 on NE Ridge
C3 on NE Ridge above shoulder.

Joos and Ennemoser went to 7500m with Carsolio and turned back at 3 am because not well acclimatized & dangerously sleepy.

17th Kofler and Schmid left C3 16th 8 pm and climbed through night and were on top at 8 am 17th & down to C1 same day.

19th summiters: 18th Joos and Ennemoser made snow cave at 7700m and next morning left for top 5 am and on top, Ennemoser on top at 9 am and Joos at 9:30 am after falling on route and down to C1. Braschler and Hammann left C3 at midnight and on summit at 2 pm together; started down at 3:30 pm together in strong wind. Braschler saw Hammann lying on plateau and 5-6m away his stick on snow; he was unaware pole not with him - discussed medical treatment and resumed descent, Braschler first; Braschler waited for him, called to him, he appeared on ridge looking down, disappeared & reappeared, shouted he had helicopter and now was not rational and refused to go down perhaps waiting for helicopters. Braschler tried to go up to him but in 15 minutes only, 10 mins gained because of exhaustion and went down; no other member able to go up to Hammann in "reasonable time." He/his body left at 8150m. Hammann was now totally irrational with serious altitude sickness and would die of it soon or freeze to death soon.

Avalanche danger too great to climb middle of North Face, so joined Swiss route perhaps 10 days after they had been there, On 14th 4:00 am started up from BC with Joos, G. Ennemoser, Schneider, Kofler and Sommer. Above C1 only Carsolio, Joos Ennemoser continued up to C2 at 6400m at 2:00 pm and rested and cooked. At 10:00 pm 3 men continued up but at 7200m Joos and Ennemoser not well enough acclimatized and went down. Carlos on up, visited Russians (woke them up) at 7500m and left them at 5:00 am and on to top in quite deep snow but no wind, no clouds, even warm ("perfect day"). 30 hours from BC to top despite deep snow at 10:00 am. Down all the way to C1 at about 6:00 (before sunset). Too dangerous to descend to the side of icefall at night, so stopped at C1. 16th BC arrived 8:00 am.

Carsolis did no climbing on Dhaulagiri till push to top on 14-15th.

Now Carsolis had only Gasherbrums I and II and Manaslu still to climb among the 8000ers. "I am not in a hurry but I would like to climb there I will decide when I am home and see my daughter." He is a member of Wielicki's Gasherbrum I and II expedition for arrival on 15 June, but chances are 50-50 whether he goes or not.

German summiter Albrecht Hamman died near the summit in his descent. His body lies on its back and is seen by most Dhaulagiri I summiters via the NE Ridge.

The father of a Spanish climber, Quico Dalmases, came to believe that this body was that of his son who disappeared when he was climbing alone in the autumn of 1989, and the father, Joan Dalmases, appealed in the spring of 2007 to climbers that season to check various details to identify the body as that of Quico.

Inaki Ochoa, one of the climbers whom Dalmases asked for help, summited Dhaulagiri I on 26 April 2007, said that the body was that of the German on Norbert Joos's team in the spring of 1995. The kind of crampons worn by the body did not exist in 1989.