한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

Swiss Expedition 1983 to Kangchenjunga

Kangchenjunga · 1983 · 가을 (3) · Switzerland

원정 개요

BC at Pangpema meadows.

No more on top because strong wind next day. Rieben went upon 22rd a little but back without success. Were also ready to go for Yalung Kang summit, but avalanche danger too great and all down to C1 that day and to BC on 23rd and left 26 Oct.

Had 2 long spells of bad weather and feared when had only gotten to C3 that would have no success.

Did not use Japanese route because too many avalanches onto 1st icefield.

From C5 route to Yalang Kang looked more difficult and more risky from avalanches than to main summit.

Bruchez has frostbite which will heal, but Michellod may lose some toes which froze while digging C5 snowhole.


Khadga, Tourism - 1 Nov 83

Report of members now in KTM:
C1 5450m
C2 5800m
C3 6650m 1 Oct and 4 members here 5 days because bad weather
C4 7250m 18 Oct
C5 7650m 20 Oct
21 summit 1) Marco Bruchez at 5:20 pm
2) Vincent May and went down to C5 at 8:30 pm in moonlight
22 Oct - 2 summiters and 3 others left C5 to C2
23 Oct - all material to BC
24 Oct - strong wind destroyed BC. Bruchez and Dominique Michellod
treated for deep frostbite in feet and hands
25 Oct - 3 left BC to come to KTM by helicopter from Ghunsa; others left
BC and should arrive KTM 5 Nov

No attempt on Yalung Kang.

  • 내부 원정 ID142
  • 원본 EXPIDKANG83301
  • 대장Denis Bertholet
  • 루트 (Route)N Face
  • 최고 도달고도8586m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 10명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Denis BertholetSwitzerlandLeader---
Bernard PolliSwitzerlandDeputy Leader---
Marco BruchezSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Gervais FilliezSwitzerlandClimber---
Vincent MaySwitzerlandClimber성공--
Rene MayorSwitzerlandClimber---
Dominique MichellodSwitzerlandClimber---
Claude PfefferleSwitzerlandExp Doctor---
Jean-Pierre RiebenSwitzerlandClimber---
Pasang Gyalzen SherpaNepalSirdar---

출처·참고문헌

Bertholet, Denis · 1983 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1983 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198422700/Asia-Nepal-Kanchenjunga-North-Face · 1983 · 웹사이트 (5) ·