원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 100m above NE Col
High point on NE Ridge.

Make C1 180m above col because many crevasses at col and it is very windy - had to fix rope in icefall and had to refix often because everyday changing with seracs falling; stayed close to rock. C1 only fixed camp; stayed here 4 nights but every day up to acclimatize (to 7000m) before trying for top from C1. One day a 300m long crevasse had opened, 1m wide but could cross it; used maybe 4m of autumn team's fixed ropes; no more than that still in proper place. From BC could see with binoculars would need to fix perhaps 400m rope and sent letter to his trekking agent to send this rope to BC and on 7th Dec Sherpa with rope met LO in Marpha. LO said Dellatore coming to Marpha on 10th so not necessary for Sherpa to go further and to leave rope and Rs. with him. Dellatore had sent letter from BC to Mainali saying he would try for top 12-13 Dec and if successful would send kitchen boy again on 15th to arrange porters. On 10th Dellatore returned BC to receive rope but not at BC. Waited one day and then left, abandoning climb. Had expected to be able to use fixed ropes left by autumn expeditions. Dellatore climbed entirely alone throughout climb.

26 Dec 94 - Tourism ministry official, Padma KC, says LO had not been informed by BC that rope was needed. LO at Marpha recieved letter from sirdar at BC saying all was well, supplies were sufficient, Dellatore was trying for summit on 12-13 Dec and if he could not succeed, he would come down on 15th. No mention of rope needed and not clear whether Dellatore would make another summit bid after 15th. Dellatore should have brought rope with him from Kathmandu, not rely on old fixed ropes; anyway he was supposed climb alpine-style. Rope sent from Kathmandu arrived at Marpha and a porter set out with it for BC but he was unable to get to BC because of weather and returned to Marpha same day.