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BC at Langshisa Glacier
ABC under NW Face, only several hundred feet from wall
C1 under NW Face
C3 on NW Ridge
C4 on NW Ridge
High point at NW Ridge.

After arrival at BC trekked around area and pitched ABC. Langshisa Glacier very rocky, worst glacier Collum ever on (& he has been in Karakoram). No fixed camps above ABC. Started climb c30 Nov and made 4 camps of one night each, carrying everything on their backs; inside tent frost formed which meant everything got wet. 4 hrs of sun each day only. From C2 climbed up steep section onto ridge which was moderate; difficult part was getting up steep section onto ridge. West Ridge is much easier to climb, lower angle and warmer from direct sunlight; would have probably gone over to West Ridge if accident hadn't happened. Only Selters and Schmierer went to C4, others too cold with toes begining to freeze. 5th Selters & Schmierer descended slowly to C3 and slept night there. 5th just 100 ft above C2 Schmierer's crampon came off while descending, had been off rope only a minute at 40-degrees hard ice, slid down hard ice & into crevasse, probably breaking his neck on ridge of crevasse at 2:45 pm. Selters reached him 15-20 minutes later but dead in crevasse (left there). Would have serious problem attempting rock climb at top of NW Ridge in very cold weather and wind.