원정 개요

BC down south of Fluted Peak.

5 left C2 at 3:30 am 22 Oct on top. 4 at top 4:00 pm and Oelz at 4:30 pm. At 150m below summit Amann found very sick from altitude and thin clothing and 1 glove (was crazy) at about 5:30 pm. Oelz very exhausted and it was very cold (-35 degrees C). Had no rope because not difficult technically. Mayr and Kleissl down with Amann and arrived C2 at 8:00 pm in full moon despite Amann's fall into crevasse. 2 Sherpas arrived 9:00. Oelz having gone astray, partly because of German voice "heard" and fallen down steep ice, at 12:00 took biv in terrible icefall. BC saw him wave for help. Slept 2 hours then understood his position and went down SW Face to BC. Very steep and avalanching, went down with avalanche 100-300m flying and turning over: "I used all the luck" - stopped 400m above C2. Other Austrian summiters got him down to C2 at 9 pm on 23rd.

No more to top because 20 cm fresh snow fall night of 23/24 Oct. Very dangerous between C1 and C2 and a little higher overhung by huge seracs that avalanched. Icefall in this area not very difficult but more dangerous than Khumbu Icefall.

Oelz may loose tips of 3 left toes to frostbite, Amann only slight frostnip.

Nairz left Nepal on urgent business call from home.


Shrestha, Tourism - 23 Oct 83

BC - 14 Oct 4400m
C1 - 15 Oct 5200m
C2 - 17 Oct 6000m


Deepak Lama, MT - 11 Oct 83

Wolfgang Nairz received urgent Telex from his office and had to return to Austria; came to KTM on 9th and left Nepal on 10th.

Rudi Mayr authorized to lead expedition.