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Swiss Lhotse Expedition

Lhotse · 1994 · 가을 (3) · Switzerland

원정 개요

Biv in West Cwm.

After arrived at BC climbed small peak SW of Nuptse, then to Dingboche. Snow not good: too warm. Then went into Cwm 17th Sept to make deposit. 22 Sept climbed Khumbutse shoulder. 23 Sept to 8000m on Lhotse to make deposit (just above yellow band) and back to BC at 9 pm 24th Sept. Rested. 29th Sept 5 pm started summit push; reached C2 of French 8:30 pm, rested in French tent, 30th Sept 4 am climbed to 8000m deposit at 2 pm; took supplies to snow cave to wait for daylight; 6 am 2 Swiss & McNab up again & 8 am, 100m below summit, McNab turned back (McNab had spent 2 nights at 8000m before Swiss came up & joined him). 9:10 am Loretan & Troillet reached Lhotse summit; was very cold and windy. Because of snow and wind, did not take equipment for a traverse. Spring is better for traverse when snow is harder, but ascent of Lhotse more difficult because of hard ice on face. Is possible to make traverse; there is a route. Should take 2 Sherpas to Lhotse to carry equipment there. From Dingboche saw there are good South Face exit routes "if necessary maybe better 3 members and 2 Sherpas: for 3 members same equipment as for 2." "It's one of the most [difficult] traverses you can do now." Loretan would like to do it, but Troillet now more interested in sailing so Loretan will have to find other teammates.

  • 내부 원정 ID1392
  • 원본 EXPIDLHOT94301
  • 대장Erhard Loretan
  • 루트 (Route)W Face
  • 최고 도달고도8516m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Erhard LoretanSwitzerlandLeader성공--
Rudolf (Ruedi) HombergerSwitzerlandClimber---
Mireille MagninSwitzerlandClimber---
Sylvie MagninSwitzerlandClimber---
Jean Fernand TroilletSwitzerlandClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

Loretan, Erhard · 1994 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1994 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
Erhard Loretan, Les 8000 RugissantsAmmann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard · 1994 · 단행본 (1) ·
Erhard Loretan, Den Bergen VerfallenAmmann, Jean & Loretan, Erhard · 1994 · 단행본 (1) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523401/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-in-the-Post-Monsoon · 1994 · 웹사이트 (5) ·