원정 개요

BC at west side of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier east of Chhukung Peak
Deposit on pillar
Biv 1 on pillar (US 1986 team's high point)
Biv 2 at ice on glacier
Biv 3 on pillar (in descent)
High point at 100m below East Summit.

Made deposit of gear at 5600m. Put fixed rope from deposit in various sections to 6200m, sometimes taking 2-3 days to do the job and bivouacing on pillar. Last rest was 10th Oct, started summit push from BC 14th Oct by Fauquet and Moulin at 5 am and reached 6400m (at about where Jeff Lowe and Mark Twight stopped in ice cave at 7000m on glacier). On 16th left all gear in cave and tried to go directly to top but stoped at 7500m by "very violent wind." Even at morning from just above cave could not stand many times and at end "it was terrible" where we were exposed to wind and descended to cave for night. 17th down to 6200m for a biv and 18th to BC clearing ropes.

Route was Central Pillar of S Face directly N of Lhotse Nuptse Glacier.

Route was in 3 parts.
1. pillar to 1st biv (very steep, 800-900 some overhang and many difficult
overhanging cornices, lot of deep snow on rock).
2. snow and ice slopes 45-60 degrees
3. very bad loose rock, unprotected rock with very thin ice on top, 60-80 degrees.

* High point was 300m below Nuptse East, a virgin peak.