원정 개요

BC near point 5295 on NGS map west of Kalapattar (between the two)
High point at right side of small North-South ridge coming from Pumori West Ridge.

First trekked in Langtang with a group he led. This had originally been planned for after Pumori climb in Sept-Oct, but he was not fit enough for climb then, so put scheduled trek first and followed it with Pumori attempt. Tried three times to reach W Ridge (or NW Ridge), but "the problem was the places below it" on mountain's west side with very big crevasse. 1st on 11th Nov tried to cross just under West Face, reached 5600m and then not possible to cross crevasse and very dangerous serac on right side of glacier, too dangerous alone. 2nd was 12 Nov Verzaroli and climbing cook, Tirtha Tamang (3 times 8000ers) tried to cross middle of glaciers, crossed many very small faces up and down and after 5 hours at 5800m abandoned this and again back to BC. 3rd on 14th Nov Verzaroli and Tamang made a camp at beginning of small ridge. Stopped at 6180m with bad weather (snowfall and wind in afternoon) so put equipment there and down to BC. 17th Verzaroli and Tamang returned to equipment and crossed 150m on rock wall but this took 2 hours carrying 20 kg each with tent. Now at 6200m decided to stop: would have to cross more glacier, need fixed ropes for descent. Problem is to reach col and after that not so difficult but not possible to solo this route.