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Ronast Ev-K-2-CNR Lhotse S Col Expedition

Lhotse · 1994 · 가을 (3) · Italy

원정 개요

Only 2 members & 1 Sherpa were engaged in attempting to reach Lhotse summit: all others involved only in research effort. Moro & Mondinelli made summit push from C2 which they left at 10:00 pm on the 10th of Oct. On their way up they found Pawlowski in small tent at 7600m; they joined him in tent & than all 3 left his tent at 6 am & reached top at 12 noon. Chamoux on top 3 hours later.

None of Lhotse S Col team climbed to Col. 6500m was maximum altitude reached by any of them except Lhotse climbers Moro, Mondinelli & 1 Sherpa who turned back.

10 May 95 - Pawlowski says that he and the two Italians climbed fairly close together to rock in couloir about 100-150m below summit. Italians said route above difficult and there was strong wind, so they descended. Pawlowski paused for five minutes, then decided to see how high he could reach, found couloir not so difficult and went to summit. Moro's tale of being on summit waiting to photograph others coming up to him is not correct.

28 March 95 - Chamoux says he does not know how high Italians reached but it was not the summit.

22 May 95 - Marco Bianchi (Everest North) says team was under enormous pressure to summit Lhotse since it was financed by CNR (Italian research organization) and its program of high altitude research did not take place.

  • 내부 원정 ID1387
  • 원본 EXPIDLHOT94303
  • 대장Agostino Da Polenza
  • 루트 (Route)W Face
  • 최고 도달고도8400m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유등정 주장 (3)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Agostino Da PolenzaItalyLeader---
Sergio GabbioItalyClimber---
Maurizio GalloItalyClimber---
Silvio MondinelliItalyClimber---
Simone MoroItalyClimber---
Antonio PrestiniItalyClimber---
Michele SamajaItalyClimber---
Giampietro VerzaItalyClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1994 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523401/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-in-the-Post-Monsoon · 1994 · 웹사이트 (5) ·