원정 개요

BC halfway between Na and summit on Schneider map
C1 just below SW Ridge
High point at SW Ridge.

Technically difficult part of climb: 1st part of the icefall & then short steep ice wall & took time to find safest way through icefall. At first while working on icefall route, put 2 tents on plateau at 5450m to right of icefall; left them there for storing gear but no longer slept there; icefall from 5050m to 5300m to 5700m also just below SW Ridge, farther along from C1; very deep snow on ice wall & same snow avalanches from new snowfall every afternoon; fixed 200m rope on wall also. Then 2 members tried to make biv but at 5750m got "some frozen toes" so descended to BC. 2 others tried to go high but got no higher than first pair; made biv but snowfall collapsed their biv sack used as shelter above them & they had to go down to C1; stayed 2 nights & then down to BC on 12th because very cold: stove wouldn't work in cold morning & Meier's toes freezing. Now not enough time to try again & anyway weather colder & more snowfall although John still hoped to make quick ascent despite slight frostbite. Abandoned this hope on 15th. Came too late in season, but want to try again in '96.