원정 개요

BC at north edge of large lake of Dingboche
Biv on NW Ridge
Biv on NW Ridge
Biv on NW Ridge
Biv on North Face of Tsuro Ri under West Col
High point at NW Ridge.

1st acclimatized on Chhukung Ri and on Ama Dablam (and had bad throats). Reached 5790m on NW Ridge on 23 Oct and then stopped by danger from loose blocks, deep powder snow and route-finding differences of opinion, whether to continue up ridge or over onto right hard face, so down to BC same day.

7 Nov started on new route after trip to Namche to replace gear left on 1st route in 18 rappels. Second route was much more dangerous from big seracs fall threatening but easier climb on North Face of Tsuro Ri under the West Col. Got to 5750m on 7 Nov, slept 5700m here. That afternoon began to snow and very cold on North Face with no direct sun. On 8th down to BC and climb over. Came week or two too late. "Wonderful reconnaissance of Ama Dablam, fairly expensive though." Would like to try again, so don't want route possibilities publicized.