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Swiss Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam · 1983 · 가을 (3) · Switzerland

원정 개요

BC at west side of Ama Dablam Glacier.

Swiss route different from New Zealand from BC to C1 and then same as French 1978 autumn and Swiss same all the way. Difficult because of so much new snow: very difficult to find safe way.


Shrestha, Tourism - 30 Oct 83

Summit 22 Oct
Hans Berger
Rudolf Julier
Fritz Maurer
Beat Supersaxo

Summit 23 Oct
Christoph Jezler from C2 to top and to BC same day

Summit 25 Oct
Jean-Pierre Wagnieres
Stephan Welz
Christoph Haueter

Becker bivouacked at bit higher than C2 and got frostbite. Wettstein reached
C2 at midnight. Had accident between C2 and summit when Senn fell on him and
crampons wounded him.

Summit 26 Oct
Sirdar Ang Kami 25 reached summit alone from C2.

Wettstein and Senn stayed this night at C2.

Summit 27 Oct
Joerg Kindschi

On 27th Bumann, Wettstein and Ang Karma bringing Senn to BC. Bumann and Senn fell, other 2 were away and did not see in complete darkness who fell first. Few people had come up to pass from BC with tea and with their help Bumann and Senn found. Bumann unconscious and brought to BC, but Senn dead.

28th Senn body brought to BC. Bumann's body to be buried or cremated not yet instructed; Senn to be buried.

Senn spent night of 25 Oct a little above C2. Max to C2 and informed others they needed help - reached C2 9:00-10 pm. No one knows which person slipped and fell. Accident [on 27 Oct] happened at easy part after bottom end of ridge. None except Senn fell short distance in couloir and her crampons wounded Wettstein's frostbite: very little loss of toes and more of finger.


Khadga, Tourism - 28 Oct 83

Mrs Maya Senn and Max Wettstein are seriously injured and helicopter requested in report yesterday. Mrs Senn died according to report today. Helicopter this afternoon went for Wettstein, met expedition representative below BC when Wettstein was not there, pilot instructed them to bring to same spot tomorrow morning.


Press Release

Climbing a difficult route on the north ridge of their 6812m mountain, which is near Mount Everest, four members reached the summit on Oct 22. They included the expedition's climbing leader, Hans Berger, 35, from Davos-Frauenkirch, Switzerland.

Wettstein managed to return to the team's highest camp at about 6200m at nearly 10 o'clock that night to tell others about their weak condition and need for help. But Miss Senn spent the night alone a little distance above the camp and its shelter. Both had frostbite and Wettstein slight head wounds from a minor accidents when Miss Senn fell on him and the steel spikes fitted to her boots cut him.

It was during their descent on Oct 27, the day after they had attempted to go to the summit, when Miss Senn was being helped down the mountain side by Bumann, that these two, who were roped together, fell, killing Miss Senn outright and so injuring Bumann so that he died a day later at BC.

Wettstein was not involved in this fall, but his condition required helicopter evacuation to KTM. Supersaxo came with him and said last night that Wettstein is not really seriously ill, although he is staying in hospital here for a few days.

The other surviving members are expected to return here on Nov 2 after having buried their two teammates bodies near base camp.

  • 내부 원정 ID137
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD83301
  • 대장Guido Bumann
  • 루트 (Route)N Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6814m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 18명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Guido BumannSwitzerlandLeader--사망
Hans BergerSwitzerlandClimbing Leader성공--
Ruth Sylvia BeckerSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Heidi CadischSwitzerlandClimber---
Jean-Pierre CuerelSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Christoph HaueterSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Christoph Peter JezlerSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Rudolf JulierSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Joerg KindschiSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Fritz MaurerSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Hans-Peter ReissSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Liselotte (Lilo) SchmidtSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Maya SennSwitzerlandClimber--사망
Beat SupersaxoSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Jean-Pierre WagnieresSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Stephan WelzSwitzerlandClimber성공--
Max WettsteinSwitzerlandClimber---
Ang Kami SherpaNepalSirdar성공--

출처·참고문헌

Berger, Hans · 1983 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1983 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423503/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Ascent-and-Tragedy · 1983 · 웹사이트 (5) ·