원정 개요

Mountain in very good condition when this team on top: no wind, snow good. But bad snowfall & wind in mid Sept which delayed progress before "window of nice weather" so much acclimatization in camps rather than going down to BC to rest.

3 members were Salino's clients. Left to himself to decide progress, he would have taken big rest because he had real problem with nose & throat (took antibiotics) but felt he had to continue, forced himself to climb. Joncheres missed summit because of diarrhea at C3.

Ang Rita not drinking; had strong Sherpa team because director of Peugot in China was to be a member. 2 sons of Ang Rita were on climb, both very strong especially Pasang Janbu who was running at 8000m.