원정 개요

BC at road
ABC at normal ABC.

Three climbed together on normal route to 7000m to acclimatize, then on 21 Sept from ABC in afternoon to 6000m at bottom of SW Face, made no camp here (3 hrs from ABC), rested and ate, then at 8:30 pm Yamanoi began his solo climb on new route left of Loretan route of 1990 and 2 women began their ascent of Loretan Route. Yamanoi reached 7200m on snow face with some hard ice; here he stayed 4:00-7:00 am to rest and wait for daylight to see way ahead; decided to take couloir of rock and snow to right; made 1st bivouac at 7600m at 4 pm; slept here in tent and 23 Sept 6 am again up tough very, very deep snow to summit at 4 pm (spent 2-3 hrs searching for highest summit, from which he photographed Lhotse and Everest); had reached summit ridge 12 noon. Descended normal route and at 7000m 2nd biv at 9 pm 23 Sept (at normal route C2); reached ABC 6 pm 24 Sept. "Very tired" from this "good mixed route" but had hoped to climb more direct line but it would have meant much, too much, difficult vertical rock climbing.

2 women on 21 Sept wasted one day because took wrong couloir to left (one couloir before correct one). This their first experience with night climbing and moonlight no help went to end of couloir on 22 Sept afternoon to 6700m and bived there; 23 Sept descended in day light and found correct line, biv at 7700m that night. 24 Sept deep snow traverse (to above knee) and snow needed to be packed down by knee and then trod on; so another biv at 8000m little before ridge. 25 Sept to true summit, again through very deep (chest deep for short women, 156 and 165 cm high) snow. On summit 1:30-1:45 pm & down to 7000m (normal C2) for biv and 26 Sept ABC.