원정 개요

BC at road
ABC at normal site
C1 same as New Zealand-US.

Route to C2 already well made and rope fixed by Iman Gurung with French-Japanese. Tried 3 times to reach C2 while Sherpas made C1; finally Japanese slept there 15th Sept. 16th Sept small avalanches hit Korean C2. Japaese never again slept in C2; went down on 16th to ABC while Sherpas moved C2 to one side and on 23rd members occupied this new C2 after 4 members had also acclimatized to 7000m. Sherpas made C3 on 27th but it was first slept in on 28th. 29th 2 members and 2 Sherpas left C3 4:50 am for top. Ang Rita from French expedition had made route above C3 but Japanese fixed 3 more ropes above rock band and reached summit at 11:30 am, started down 12:25 pm very good weather and no wind. Slept in C3 and Sherpas to C2; Imato and Homada to BC 30th Sept.

Next summit party of 4 members and 3 Sherpas ABC->C1 on 1 Oct; 4th Oct they left C3 7:30 am; 1 member and 1 Sherpa fast go ahead and on top at 1:10 pm for half hour; on descent met 3 members and 2 Sherpas. 1 member went down with them while 2 members and 2 Sherpas defied leadership orders and continued up although Otsuka turned back 8050m, Tamuna at 8150m. Sasahara and Lhakpa Gyalu on top at 3 pm and Lhakpa Gyalu descended much faster than Sasahara, who lost route C3. After 7 pm C3 asked to supply him with torch and tea, members not strong enough to go up but Lhakpa Gyalu up to top fixed ropes at 7850m could not find Sasahara, returned to C3. Sasahara "lost his mind" and paid no attention to time on summit day and slept that night at 7900m just above and to side of fixed rope's top, he makes small snowhole but no preparation for bivouac, on 5th Sasahara moved slightly and was spotted, but when others reached him he couldn't move. Oxygen brought up from C2 (none in C3) for him. NZ and Tibetan "Sherpas" helped descent; meanwhile Lhakpa Gyalu also needed to be carried to ABC: according to NZ-US team's doctor 12 Oct and confirmed by Imoto, he became lethargic during 5 Oct and developed intestinal pain (due to altitude perhaps) and died 8th Oct below ABC.

Sherpa Summiters:
Kunga, Rolwaling, 1960
Nawang Dorje, Rolwaling, 2 March 1965, his 1st 8000er
Chhong Ringe, Rolwaling, 5 March 1964, his 1st 8000er
Lhakpa Gyalu, Chaurikharka, 1963
this his only 8000er, but 2nd ascent of Cho Oyu.

Oxygen:
Imoto and all Sherpas not at all except by dying Lhakpa Gyalu
on night of 7th Oct in ABC.
Hashiguchi in ABC and BC.
Harada, Tamura, Tabata and Otsuka - sleeping in C3 night before going to summit.
Sasahara - sleeping in C3 night before summit and on 5th Oct in descent.