원정 개요

BC at true Karshang
ABC at Dzasampa
C1 just before Nangpa La
High point at Nangpa La.

Beidleman & Boukreev pitched 2 camps on 11 Sept for clients not realizing threat from guides of people fleeing Tibet & from some of their clients expecting food & shelter from climbers. Expedition clients & Sherpas occasionally occupied 2 higher camps before danger of looting got so bad during night of 17, 18 & 19 Sept that expedition had to be abandoned. Boukreev & Celsi stayed behind hoping still to climb & Spaniards had arrived. Also had problem of some clients fighting each other. Hopes permit for this climb will be available next year for another mtn.

Celsi - 1 Oct: he went to Nangpa La on 22nd, met Chinese officer who wrote price of $2000 in snow for Celsi to go ahead to climb. He thought about it but decided not, had been to Nangpa La & that enough. Boukreev stayed at BC while Celsi to Nangpa La last time.

2 Oct (by telephone) - Celsi did cross Nangpa La on invitation from Chinese officier & had lunch with him at his team's ABC north of La in very cordial atmosphere. Officer had thick wad of dollar bills he showed to Celsi to indicate term's strictly cash. Celsi met hall & Viesturs, but they could not supply & cash to him. Officer pointed to Tibetans heading towards La & laughed, not at all concerned about their departure. Celsi & Spaniards not worried about these Tibetans; felt other Americans on USA team were naive, inexperienced in Asia & overreacted, frightened by strange people & perhaps by the mountain.

Rob Hall: Celsi asked Hall to cash personal cheque for $2000 - who takes cheque book climbing a mountain? Hall refused.