원정 개요

BC at bottom of SSE Ridge at gear and stone
C1 at glacier at start of ridge
C2 at top of serac on SSE Ridge.

From C1 to top distance much geater than Belak had estimated in spring & then was lot of snow but now bare rock & ice & water falls & lots of snow fall so did not try new route on SW Face, which is impossible in Aut. So climbed ridge which is quite easy to go up & quite safe. Daily snow & for a very little & gave soon. If had come 14 days earlier & thus had 14 more days, could have climbed SW Face & W Ridge. Found much Japanese fixed rope hanging crazily now from 1987 autumn Japanese climb. 4 Nov made summit bid from C2 but in more than 12 hrs reached 6750m at summit rocks; here headlamp batteries failed & had to go back 150m (linear meters) from top at too difficult rock to climb in darkness.

Next summit party too old & unable to handle difficulty; reached between C1 & C2 Nov 8-10th Nov.

Griljc, Humar & Belak started from BC; 11th to C2; 12th 2:30 am from C2 but very windy, couldn't see where going, very cold feet of Humar & Griljc so back to C2 & Griljc down to BC because chest problem; Humar & Belak stayed in C2 through snowfall all day; 13th left C2 at 7:30 am (too late) climbed ice to upper plateau & small snow ridge; at 11 am on plateau where waist-deep snow which had fallen in previous 10 days, difficult to cross; above hard ice and 100m rock climbing; at start had used last piton on 70-degree steep ice just below 80-100m to summit; reached top 6:10 pm, descent dangerous with feeble headlamps in very cold [weather]; got to C2 at 10:30 pm: got slightly frostbitten toes. Took all next day to descend to BC over sticky snow which clung to boots. Very long route.