원정 개요

BC east of Tilje Peak
C1 at glacier, northeast of Tilje and southeast of Gyajikang
C2 at rock buttress
C3 just below col
C4 at col between Gyajikang and Nemjung
High point at West Ridge.

Were having avalanches every 10 minutes; of 30 days at BC only 4 days of no new snowfall & were even serac avalanches; were caught in spindrift of 1 or 2 avalanches but no damage done except few bruises from stonefall. Because of serac danger did not go up S Face direct but up a moraine glacier to W Ridge & reached col between Gyajikang & Nemjung. Between BC & C1 easy glacier travel but danger from seracs & crevasses; between C1 & C2 90% rock, rock buttress with technical climbing quite hard in places; fixed 750 ft rope here. C3 above buttress on snow slope to col, technically easy but relatively high risk from crevasses & serac. C4 not far beyond C3 & used C3 more as dump than place to stay but not entirely. From C4 went 500-600 vertical feet along W Ridge but bad weather from 2nd November with high winds & much snowfall. On 4th & 7th went above C4 but very exposed ridge, very cold & windy & snowfall continuously & ridge 50 ft cornice & seracs. Would have needed 7-10 days to have finished ridge, using but not fixing ropes abseiling down & didn't have that much time. Had fixed 1000 ft more rope above C2 on rock buttress.

* This team was on mountain named Nemjung on Annapurna Conservation Area map and Hudd satisfied this same mountain. British attempted 1991 winter and Americans 1987 spring he thinks likely same mountain as Japanese were on in 1980s: his sirdar wandered around and found old Japanese items at a camp in a logical site for an east ridge attempt in 1983 autumn, the time of Japanese claimed 1st ascent of Himlung.