원정 개요

BC at east end of Hinku Nuptse Glacier.

On South Face: climbed to just over 20,000 ft to top of icefall and put cache there and returned to BC. Took 7 consecutives days work in icefall. At top icefall found crevasse 200 ft wide and continued width of icefall glacier at which point pulled all equipment and people back to BC and tried a route just east of icefall. Then 60-70 degrees mixed rock and snow which would have descent down from a rock ridge but took too long to rappel and decided that with permit specifying icefall didn't feel could not go farther then this to east.

Worst icefall Sherpas had seen: crevassed and constant falling seracs; ladder useless. Recommend trying SE Ridge of gentle angled rock ridge on a yak patch to right of joined Hinku Nuptse and Hinku Shar Glacier.

14 Sherpa porters escorted by 4 expedition H-A Sherpas were swept by fresh snow avalanche at 10:30 am [on Oct 24 while approaching base camp for picking up loads for return march]. All swept down but 4 expedition Sherpas had had avalanche experience. 1 Sherpani buried under 15 ft of snow and was dead when finally found.