원정 개요

BC by side of glacier
C2 northeast of NW Ridge
C3 between NW Ridge and small north ridge below West Ridge.

1st summit: 6 men left C3 6 am and reached W Summit at 7:40 am and all to East Summit at 8:55 am because from West Summit the east one appeared higher; returned to C3 at 7 am, W Summit 8:45 am; 3 Japanese and Nuru went also to E Summit at 10:00 am and BC 4:30 pm.

2nd summit party of 6 left C3 at 7:30 am, (2 Nepali members not in "so good condition" and not necessary to go to lower peak); decended to BC. T Nakamura tried to measure 2 peaks alt. with handy level and found no difference. 3rd summit team left C3 8 am and on peak 10 am; none to East Peak and down to BC.

BC to C1 rope fixed for crossing icefall; rock climbing from BC to C1. C1 to C2 750m rope fixed at steep snow slope and crevasses (if snowed, might be avalanches). C2 to C3 150m fixed to go around big crevasse. Route was "little difficult" says Tanabe for inexperienced younger members who needed fixed ropes. C3 to West Summit gentle snow slope and "could play football game on top" says Nakamura - gentle up and down slopes to East Summit.