원정 개요

BC same as Koreans (normal ABC)
C1 at Bonington C3
C2 at left of Bonington route
High point at South Face left of Bonington route.

Korean's route at and above 6800m better and safer than Bonington route; "very good route" says Decamp; wanted to use Korean's route in descent so went to their C5 at 7400m. 24th went half way to top from 7400m but started to snow at 11:00 am (snowed every day from 9 am or later like monsoon, never had sunlight after noon after 20th Oct). Decided to go down, rest and wait for better weather but never reached base of pillar; had planned to traverse right top between Bonington and Beghin routes. One Sherpa was to bring gear to bottom of pillar and even invited him to top via Korean route but had to be belayed above 7400m and he slowed them on 24th. Much unconsolidated snow and slab avalanche danger increasing. On 25th returned to BC. Tried to go up again on 1 Nov and did not reach C2 because of strong wind, some snowfall and many snow avalanches ("very scared" says Destivelle). 10th again up but stayed 3 days there and down on 13th and it was over but still hoping to go again but did not. "Pillar is good but 2 climbers not enough" says Destivelle.

Tournaire only to C1; reaching C1 involves rock climbing.