원정 개요

Bad snow conditions constant snow and ice avalanching; the mountain is nothing but an icefall. No accidents, but one near miss when seracs fell 45 ft (14m) from climbers on 21 Oct.


Ranson - 1 Nov 1983

Gave up: bad snow conditions snow and seracs avalanches. 5 days of snow 10-15 Oct, then gave up on 22 Oct. High point 21,000 ft 21 Oct by:
Stan Kent
Gordon Seibel
Ganesh Gurung
Nawang Sherpa

BC at 14,200 ft 7 Oct planned
C1 - 5100m - 8 Oct
C2 - 5800m - 19-20 Oct

C1 got buried under 6-7 ft of snow about 10 Oct; had to go back and dig it out. No one there at the time, all in BC.

Avalanches every 10 minutes day and night.
2 Nepalese above BC.
SE Ridge as planned - same as Koreans
Mountain is nothing but an icefall.

No accidents. Ice serac block came 48 ft from one party on 21st. That turned them back from high point. 21 more seracs ready to fall also.

No oxygen used; no frostbite or accidents, etc.


Shrestha, Tourism - 30 Oct 1983

Abandoned 21 Oct at 6400m because very difficult route, bad weather and shortage of time. Health Ok.
BC 7 Oct 4300m
Other camps not known.