원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 at Col
C2 on NE Ridge
C3 on NE Ridge.

C3 established for summit push - tried first summit push when weather turned bad: 2 members in C2 on 18th Sept when over one meter of snow fell on them & descended next day because Radio Nepal reported continued bad weather for 3-4 days. On 2nd summit push C3 established & top reached.

Baehler turned back from summit party; as oldest did not have ambition to go to top but to go as high as he felt like & 2 hrs before he fell he said on radio he felt too tired to go to summit "but I didn't care (about missing summit) its so marvelous up here." Probably he waited for Italian-Polish US team's summiters to go by so he could follow them. Pole was ahead of him (30-50m ahead) & American further behind, could not see Baehler when he fell by Pole who heard something & saw him sliding - no track of him fall seen in snow which was constantly windswept; ice ax found at probably point of fall; no attempt to go down N Face because it dangerously exposed to avalanches - his ice axe found 200m below about where his fall started.

On 3rd Oct Perraudin said 25th Sept summiters took different lines just below summit & Caughron of Italian-Polish expedition explained 5 Oct 1994 that Swiss didn't know which was correct line to top on 25th Sept. Their member Paul (Amandruz) line to right with 2 Italians while Francois took line to left, which was wrong; it got him to 40m below summit & then impossible for him to go higher; without oxygen, ropes and teammates he hadn't strength to go down 200m, make long traverse to correct lines to right & up again (he had come up from C2 & descended to C2).