원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh II until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

BC south of face.

Some on 19th went to 6100m to prepare descent route to col between C2 and C3 and then Americans told them to go away.

8-17 Oct very bad weather, so did acclimatization climbs of unmarred peaks below 6000m. 18 Oct 3 others started up on ascent route: 18-23 Oct in 5 bivs in powder snow and reached 6800m 23 Oct and then not possible to go more in alpine-style on such toothed rock. Same day descended to 6500m when Hartman, the man in middle in rappelling down, piton came out and or rock with piton came away. Wielicki went down to find/rescue him while Pawlowski did not want to go down but had sleeping bag - would not go without rope. Wielicki left BC 24th morning while on 23rd others started including Majer.


Majer & Wielicki - 5 Nov 83

23rd started up route not knowing accident had happened, but after 1st biv Sherpas reported accident so returned to BC. Rescue party then up and on 27th reached Pawlowski and brought him to BC. He had come down 100m.

Left BC 28 Oct. Had seen body which had fallen more than 2000m and did not try again for top since

(1) no time left, and
(2) made mistake in route above 4th biv: should have gone from there more
directly to top.

Face very dangerous: seracs and stones constantly falling.


Shrestha, Tourism

23 Oct:

Krzysztof Wielicki
Andrzej Hartman
Ryszard Pawlowski

reached 6800m on South Ridge from S Face of Ganesh III. Same afternoon decided to give up due to difficult upper of S Face.

During rappelling down face had accident. At 1:00 pm Hartman fell down with rock piton and ropes to base of face from 6500m height. After this accident Wielicki came down without ropes to BC next day. During this time Pawlowski staying on S Face waiting for help. After 2-1/2 days 6 members rescued him on 27 Oct. Rescue team saw body of Hartman in a crevasse below S Face of Ganesh III and left it there because impossible to take it out. Left BC 28 Oct for KTM.


Shrestha, Tourism - 30 Oct 83

Andrzej Hartman fell from 300m below top on 23 Oct during descent South Face of Ganesh. Could not find body yet on 25 Oct says Sirdar Sonam Sherpa.

Scheduled to leave BC 28 Oct.
Summit success not known. No camp news.