원정 개요

BC at Tongmarmarg valley just east of lower "n" on Schneider map.

Ascent route S Face to SW Ridge (joined British route on ridge at 6500m); highest point at S Summit; Descent route S Face To SW Ridge.

Between C1 and C2 much snowfall which destroyed C1 and ropes. Between C2 and C3 much rock and icefall so could work only very early in morning when cold. Difficult rock climbing just above C2 at 5500m (100m high rock well) then moved climbing and again 50m rock wall - 60 degree steepness. Both days on S Summit very strong wind and cold. No attempt to go beyond S Summit. 1 more week needed to carry equipment and fix ropes. No time, ropes and strength left after 4 Nov (had received 1 week's extension).

C1 tent when empty of people struck by big rock. Climbed safest route on face: 100m to right something falling all the time. Most difficult climb ever made by Srot and Canker.

Zupan lightly grazed by falling stone. 4 members bit frozen fingers.


Prachanda Shrestha, Tourism Ministry - 9 Nov 1983

Yugoslav Gaurishankar South face

3 members started from C3 (6300 m) on 31 Oct via South Face and spent night of 31st biv at 6700m in snowhole and 1 Nov started from biv at 8:00 am and on South Summit (7010m).

1) Smiljan Smodis, born 1957, student Celj
2) Bojan Srot, born 1961, student Celj
reached South Summit 13:50 pm
1 leader Slavko Cankar on S summit at 15:20 hours.
Strong wind and cloud and took photos
All 3 spent 1 Nov night at C3

3 Nov Franc Pepevnik (born 1959, merchant ,Sentjur), Joze Zupan (born 1954, teacher, Rimske Toplice) started from C3 on 3 Nov at 12:00 noon and spent night at 6700m same snowhole. 4 Nov started at 8:15 am and reached South Summit 11:00 am; strong wind but clear photo. Down to C1 4650m that day.

Health: Franc Povesc and Ales Stopar injured their hands by stone at 6200m, so returned to BC but not serious.

Leader's toes little frostbitten.
Planned to leave BC 7 Nov