원정 개요

BC at Imja Khola
Biv 1 at Imja Glacier at bottom of west wall of North Col
Biv 2 at west wall of North Col
Biv 3 at west wall
Biv 4 on North Ridge.

Most difficult part between 1st & 2nd biv rock ramp of 200m height. Slept 6th night back in 4th biv. Did not go on to other summits because sleeping bags, etc had gotten very wet; Otta's gloves shredded & had to go up from 4th biv without gloves. Descent route Spring '84 Koreans.

At first, team summited Island Peak, then 6 to Baruntse (Stastry had altitude problem on Island Peak).


Martin Otta - 15 May 94

1) West Face - Baruntse North
2) From Imja Glacier
3) Start: 2 May from ABC (5600m)
a) 2 May from 5600m to 5950m direct approx 50-60 degree ice climbing.
b) 5950m to 6150m ramp from left to right approx 65-70 (200m) ice with
unpleasant stones and finish mixed terrain 70 degree 50m
Biv1 at 5970m in ramp.
c) 1st snowfield - 100m 60 degree slope - from left to right to right
upper corner and 20m mix (IV) Between Biv1 and Biv2 snowfield, good
hard snow.
Biv2 at 6210m in 1st snowfield.
d) 2nd snowfield 200m 55 degree direct up - good hard snow.
e) 3rd snowfield 150m 60-65 degree ice -> no hard bad snow following
left side of field.
f) 4th snowfield (200-250m) traverse in upper part of field (approx 50
degree) - very good hard snow. Biv3 at 6400m in snowfield.
g) from 4th snowfield before end direct up in mixed terrain (IV) 50m
and continue 100m to the north ridge to four stones - Biv4 at 6580m.
h) from 6580m North Ridge to the North Summit (7014m) [6985 on HMG-Finn map].
i) descending - North Ridge to Numri-La, from Numri-La to Imja Glacier
6-8 May (basecamp).