원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on West Face
C4 between yellow band and bottom of Couloir.

Swedes went to summit on 9th May in the couloir on hard packed snow. Summited at 5:30 pm with returns to C4 11:30 pm & 3 am in very strong wind going upward in couloir during descent; had forgotton to take headlamps from C4 & was only starlight & had to feel their way down. Fixed 100m above yellow band where Everest fixed roped veered off to the left to C4 & 50m in couloir.

Carsolio arrived BC 6th May. Attempted summit on 8th May from BC & reached base of Lhotse face (c6700m) & turned back because did not know the way in the dark & too many crevasses; wanted to do expedition climb; returned to BC; continuous ascent with 2 hour rest in C2 & 1 hr in C4 & on up to top at 12:25. Had wanted to make ascent in 21 hours, but last big chang party in BC before started & lost much time with diarrhea. Spoke with wife by radio from summit. Made top in just under 24 hrs in rush at end to make top in less than 24 hrs. No frostbite & accident. Could see W Cwm from top of Lhotse: made special point of noting this.


Hall - 24 May 94

Hall and Viesturs went down to BC after Everest ascent and then started up on 14th to C2, 15th to C4 of Lhotse (tent left there by Sweden) 16th 3:30 am left C4 and on top at 9:30 am (not actually on top because impossible to stand there) down to C4 at 11:30 am and C2 at 3:30 pm, slept there "moderately exhausted." Hall led all the way up on hard snow but two men were together all the way despite fact Hall on oxygen and Viesturs none. Cold but very little wind.

No Sherpas specifically for Lhotse. None carried to C4, but Sherpas with Hall's Everests expedition did leave some supplies at a cache which Hall carried up to C4 and of course had helped with C1, C2 and C3.

Swede's and Carsolio's color transparencies taken from summit (which I saw) show a section of W Cwm is visable from top of Lhotse.