원정 개요

After Carlos arrived ABC got throat infection & stayed in camp 6 days. 20th went to 7400m alone for acclimatization; moved slowly because not fully well; down to ABC on 22nd. Waited till 25th, where had rested & full moon that night left ABC 3:00 pm on 25th in perfect weather (no wind) with Loretan in summit party, but Loretan not so well & no motivation for normal route so he turned back at 6600m at about 7:30 pm. Carlos continued up alone with no wind & full moon light so bright no need to use headlamps for climbing; had beautiful sunrise on Rolwaling; [on top] at 9:57 am, weather bad in descent with cloud & snowfall. Fastest ascent of Cho Oyu 19 hrs - slept in C2 at c7000m in descent; had rested & changed clothes on C1 at 6400m in ascent for one hour. Climbed direct route up from C2. No accident or frostbite; did not use oxygen - now goes to Lhotse.

Helmut and Walter attempted to reach summit from C2 on 27th April but very cold & windy and turned back at 7500m. Next attempt was by three members who made C3 on the 3rd May with Danu Sherpa, who decended to C1 same day. Summiters left C3 at 5:15 am (Nepali time) & on top 11:20 am together & returned to C3 at 2 pm; 3:00 pm storm came & destroyed tents at C3. Fixed ropes & established C2, then down - doesn't like normal routes & has summited Cho Oyu.

No Chinese police/army seen.