원정 개요

ABC at 1/2 hour before Nangpa La.

1st went to Gokyo, Cho La and Ama Dablam BC to acclimatize (not to Pokalde); removed ABC on 18th April because Tibetan intruders stole everything and didn't need it anymore. On 17th started a cross icefall. From C2 but turned back at 7000m because others with him gave up. After long rest, made 2nd summit bid: 24 April from BC Fritz and Mayerhofer and 2 Sherpas to C1. 25 April one member turned back, no strength, 1 Sherpa with him. Only Fritz and Karma reached C2. 26th to C3, which they pitched, thus started for top when full moon high at 10:00 pm. Climbed steadily till till 4:30 am, 27 April when reached 8000m and reached edge of ice ridge. Stayed an hour hoping summit clouds and light snowfall would stop, then went down with Fritz's toes beginning to freeze and Karma seemed to be have recurrance of heart problem. Were 2 hours from top.

Not strong team: Zipper not a climber and 1 of 2 climbing Sherpas lazy (not Karma).