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BC in Kaphe Khola little north of point 4100m on Dhaulagiri Himal map.

On 10th Oct weather got bad and next couple of days also those who went to high point retreated to C3 and could not go down further because storm (wind and snow); also in C3 were Elsner, Hoess, Jans and Kruis because it was the day for 2 teams to change over the lead.

S Ridge at beginning not possible - rock too loose. Planned to make C4 at c7000m on S Ridge. Most difficult parts: C1 to C2 (rock ridge + 100m rock section) and above C3 steep mixed rotten rock and ice all way to ridge.

C3 (avalanche started only 15m above C3). Jans was digging snow cave to replace tent and he was carried 200m down and went up and started digging for others. Those who survived were Elsner, Fichter, Hoess, Kruis and Schmidt.

Only 2nd degree frostbite for Elsner, Fichter, Jans, Hoess; no other accidents.


Stelfox, et al, British (Irish) - 19 & 20 May 1984

Germans in autumn 1983 used same route in much of their climb as Irish this spring. Irish found their camps, fixed ropes and two bodies 10m apart, one in a sleeping bag and other sitting up.

Only route difference appears to have been between Irish ABC and C1.

Route was up a spur on SW Face to South Ridge for West Peak.

2 dead in avalanche; 5 came back by helicopter.