원정 개요

BC at road
C3 at was Novak camp.

After wind took tent out at C2, new tent pitched at 7000m on 8th May. Piazza and Giovanetti went to top from C1: left C1 at 3:30 pm 11 May and climbed without biv; when reached C2 searched for head lamps, couldn't find any, decided to continue ascent through crevasse area with light from one gas cigarette higher; reached C3, met Silhan and Hruby there and climbed after them - on top at 12:00 noon (farthest summit).

Oberbacher and Kritizinger arrived C1 13th May, 14th C2, 15th to Jiri Novak's C3 (7400m). 16th Kritizinger feeling altitude problems and down alone to ABC while Oberbacher went up 5 am from Novak C3; on true summit 11:30 am (had difficulty finding of route alone and in wind), back to C3 to sleep; went to summit 4 days after Piazza, et al, because his friend Castlunger had altitude problem and he went with her to Zangmu.