원정 개요

BC at near normal site
C2 at 50m below North Col (moved to 5850m)
High point at NE Ridge.

Impossible to go to smaller peaks first because deep snow everywhere - even to pass icefall because deep snow. Biv at 5050m 19th April & on 20th back to BC & avalanche covered him. 26th April finally reached C1 & on 28th to C2 in deep new snow. 29th dumped 2 week's supply at Col & 30th reached normal C4 site, dumped gear (7100m) & down to BC & bad weather again but had gear in place & had to stay 6 nights with one meter new snow everyday, heard falling seracs. Finally 10th May tent with Vos in it pushed 50m aside by windblast of avalanche. Down to BC 11th with constant avalanche threat. Again bad weather & climb abandoned. Spent 22 nights in BC & 14th above; very boring; finished all 4 books taken to read.