원정 개요

BC on glacier start of ice and end of moraine, one hour from Nangpa La high point
Biv3 at top of seracs
Biv4 at middle of steep snow slope
Biv6 below final snow slope.

2 Swiss had good technical ability, good ice climbers in Alps but never before climbed in Himalaya, were preparing for K2 climb in 1995 which Magrina was to join. Expedition for Cho Oyu put together by 2 Swiss, who advertised in Spanish magazine & 2 responded while trekking agent told Magrima & his friend about expedition; four Spaniards actually met only on plane from Karachi to Kathmandu.

Was very cold: -24C at 10 pm at BC (outside tent) on arrival there. Made no fixed camps to climb as there independent parties, but Tell decided mountain not for him after having climbed across Nangpa La to bottom of mountain, where all members camped 12 Jan at 5800m; stayed there 2 days in very bad weather & 2 tents broken by 200km/hr winds, all decided to return to BC & Tell to Ktm. 2 Swiss left BC on 19th to go up again after breakfast as weather cleared in mid-morning; snow had stopped during the previous night. At BC about 40 cm had fallen; wind had blown a lot of snow about, so difficult to say how much exactly fallen. 3 Spaniards left BC on 20th (had no walkie-talkies on this expedition). Spaniards slept on 20th at same spot had biv on 12 Jan (found there a bag of food left by Swiss). 21st Spaniards biv on ridge at 6400m at 10 pm after having trouble to find route this day saw Swiss on ridge below seracs & biv below seracs. On 22nd Spaniards left 6400m biv & climbed the ridge & seracs; Swiss climbing seracs when Spanish were on ridge. Spanish left just above serac this was last time Swiss were seen. On 23 had late start because of cold & now route is easy; 4 pm reached 7000m & pitched tent next to Swiss tent, where found sleeping bag, stove, food, etc but no one; presumably Swiss had gone for top that day, but why not taken sleeping bag or other biv equipment in winter time? 24th Spaniards followed Swiss footsteps in snow & reached 7400-7500m at 4 pm under rock. 25th again Spanish followed footsteps which were not always visible on ice; as Spaniards climbed, saw something red, which first thought was flag, but as it grew bigger, realized was a Swiss but to right of normal route in a dangerous place on rock & ice; Swiss appeared from 250m away lying with one arm outstreched. On 25th climbed rock & a small couloir; at 7600m Cucurull decided to turn back & spend night in Swiss tent at 7000m; Spanish had left their tent at 7400m & were climbing with sleeping bags but no other equipment. 2 other Spaniards Magrina & Garra, went to 7900m, where sat on top of rock in sleeping bags & got little sleep & Garras fingers became frostbitten. On 26th Magrina & Garra reached highest summit; before first summit, Swiss footsteps last seen but no indication whether they fell here, went to 1st or 2nd summit. Garra & Magrina at 2nd, highest summit at 11 am after 4 hrs climb. Garra & Magrina slept 26th night at 7000m in Swiss tent (Cucurull had gone to BC) because Magrina had fallen with their own tent and it was ruined. 27th slept at 6400m without tent & reached BC 29th 2:00 am.

2 Swiss perhaps died of fall, perhaps exhaustion, definitely not avalanche.