원정 개요

BC at Langshisa Glacier
C1 at West Ridge
C2 at West Ridge
High point at West Ridge.

Stopped at 6100m because no route beyond: ahead is 500-600m rock wall, to right is steep rock face and to left big crevasse; also no place at 6100m for camp. From 6100m, talked by walkie-talkie to Chu and LO in ABC about wish to change route to try SE Ridge; LO said OK (maybe language problem) but when climbers descended to ABC, LO said not permitted. Now, 9th Dec no time to try NW Ridge because in descent from 6100m had brought down camps and fixed rope and no time to reinstall it all and find out rope fixed: ABC->C1 400m, C1->C2 600m, C2 to 6100m 1500m - all rock with some ice-very difficult knife ridge before 6100m.