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C1 almost at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 at South Pillar
C4 at South Pillar.

Icefall route made by Spanish except for one day's work by British team's Sherpas & 2 other Sherpas employed for icefall work. Joined normal route at c8250m. Many problems to make C3 because route very steep & very icy: made c15-16 Sept but bad weather after & had to stay in BC 12 days & returned to C3 on 29th to find it broken but could be repaired & was slept in again only when working on route above C3 (on 5th Oct) & now weather is good.

On 7th Oct 1st (successful) party left C4 at 1:30 am & arrived top 12:30 pm, little windy on top; fixed rope that day as they ascended to 8250m waited 2 hrs on Hillary Step while British expedition's Blanco to go up step & he was delayed by oxygen having run out & didn't realize it. Oiarzabal down pillar route & are C4 at 5 pm.

2nd party 2 members [Miranda and Apellaniz], Moti Gurung & Thilen left C4 at 1:45 am; Apellaniz stopped at bottom of Hillary Step (8700m) because oxygen finished & waited there & Miranda at South Summit & waited for summiters to join them. Moti stayed with these 2 while Thilen down to C2 from S Summit; Apellaniz wanted more oxygen from Oiarzabal but he had given to Blanco. At 8300m, just before top of fixed ropes, Miranda fell to 6600m or higher; fell down normal route's couloir, breaking his skull and dying very quickly.

Rojo had circulation problem in foot. Madinabeitia & Ruiz De Infante slept in C3 6th and down with summit parties, abandoning their own summit plans because of Miranda's fatal accident. All down to BC to recover body, which will be sent home tomorrow.