원정 개요

In addition to climbing party of 19, there was Harry Taylor's 4-man party for research: they arrived at BC on 22 or 23 Sept with programme to use a special device brought by NASA's Henize to study the effects of solar radiation on human tissue (for US space program's trip to Mars). They planned to spend a week at BC, another week at ABC and had a vague idea to go to North Col. They acclimatized for a week at BC, then went to ABC on 2 Oct (3 went to ABC - Nish did not, was having difficulty with the altitude; party had spent 2-3 days in Kathmandu and then straight through to BC). At ABC Henize deteriorated very quickly, was carried down to 6000m and died in the early hours of 5 Oct in a Gamov bag from pulmonary edema and buried near where he died. Others in this party then went straight home.


Chronology:
Aug 30 - arrived BC 5200m.
Sep 8 - established ABC 6400m.
Sep 11 - established C1 7000m North Col.
Sep 18 - established C2 7800m.
(subsequent C2 at 7800m reportedly or 7900m)
Oct 5 - Death of Karl Henize aged 67 from Houston, Texas of pulmonary edema.
Buried at pre-war British Camp II, 6000m.
Oct 9 - Summit reached by Maciej Berbeka and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa
on 8th Oct C3 made at 8100m and a new variation made directly
to the Second Step. 6-1/2 hours to summit. Down to C2 by
Berbeka and to C1 by Nuru Sherpa.
Oct 10 - Summit reached by Jonathan Tinker and Ang Babu Chhiri Sherpa.
Ang Babu did not use oxygen but slept on it at C3.
Bad weather precludes further attempts.
Oct 18 - BC cleared.

Other points of varying interest:
1. John and Brigitte Muir reached 7600m together.
2. Norman Croucher, double-leg amputee, reached 7600m.
3. Maciej Berbeka, first Pole to climb from Tibet.
4. Jon Tinker, first Englishman to climb [higher than] Mallory.
5. Lhakpa Nuru, 4 Everest summits in past 2 years.
6. We should raise at least US $100,000 for our charities.

All used oxygen in C3 sleeping and all except Babu Tshering (Ang Babu) used it
climbing above C3
4 climbing Sherpas
No casualities except Henize
Dr. McConnell left expedition with Taylor party; had personal problems.