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French Expedition Makalu 1993

Makalu · 1993 · 가을 (3) · France

원정 개요

BC slightly above high BC on level site
C1 on rock on moraine between 2 glaciers
C2 at Chago glacier
C3 at Makalu La
High point at north side of NW Ridge.

Approach march more difficult for blind member (Guy Gerard) because many stones & some days he took 2-3 hrs longer than normal person; more difficult than on the snow which had danger of avalanches, but climbed to right of it in variation of normal route. No C4 made but tried to reach top from C3; thought not really necessary except to give safety. 1st attempt on 5th and each day there after to 8th. Cordola was last to try (on 8th) of total of 8 members and 1 Sherpa from C3.

Gerard reached 7200m on 7th with Coudray. Didn't know if summit party successful, needed help or what was situation in C3; Gerard and 1 Sherpa turned back at 7200m while Coudray went on up. Gerard in snow normal rate of ascent, even fast, but on fixed rope was slow because had not much experience with technique of its use. Gerard dissappointed not to go higher but enjoyed climb and its ambiance. Thinks he will certainly want to come back to Himalaya, perhaps lower mountain.

  • 내부 원정 ID1293
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA93303
  • 대장Jean Coudray
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8000m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 11명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Jean CoudrayFranceLeader---
Evelyne BajardFranceClimber---
Alain CharriereFranceClimber---
Jean-Louis CleazFranceClimber---
Jacques Robert CordolaFranceClimber---
Guy GerardFranceClimber---
Luc NicolinoFranceClimber---
Jean Yves RocheFranceClimber---
Raymond UllielFranceClimber---
Thierry VescoviFranceClimber---
Ariele VincentFranceExp Doctor---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1993 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420503/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·