원정 개요

BC at east side of Chago Glacier above normal high BC site
C1 at start of ridge leading to West Pillar
C2 at base of pillar
Biv at left side of West Face (Kukuczka route)
High points on West Pillar and Makalu La.

From C2 fixed 600m and then decided chances of getting to top weren't good; lot of snow, more than normally encountered; lack of manpower (Leicester only couple of carries, Baird eye problem and King slow to accustom himself to high mountain) at the beginning. Germans left and took their share of pooled gear with them. So after having reached 6800-6900m on pillar decided to shift to route which gave better chance of summit success. Changed to Kukuzcka route (whether ministry knew about route changes, don't know). Czechs had left fixed ropes and biv at their C2 on 14 Oct at 6600m by 4 members. 15 Oct Groom and Squires on up, Groom to Makalu La and descended to meet Squires to report snow knee deep and strong wind so climb finished. Bigger and stronger team needed and in spring perhaps better for less snow.