Makalu International Expedition
Makalu · 1993 · 가을 (3) · Czechoslovakia
원정 개요
BC in area of high BC
ABC on rock between 2 glaciers
C1 on Kukuczka pillar
C2 at Makalu La
C3 below NW Ridge
High point at NW Ridge.
Snow fall after 20th Sept to end Oct every day, not heavy fall but daily. Went to Makalu La to avoid avalanches. South of La tried 2 lines above C3: Nicco and Moro got to 8200m on ridge and winds very dangerous. One day later Mysik and Rakoncaj reached 7900-8000m left of ridge to normal route and snow made impossible to cross serac zone (in 1 hour climbed 30m). Moro on 11th tried again on ridge but again stopped by wind at 8200m. Climb now finished (watched weather from BC for 3 days but no change).
- 내부 원정 ID1291
- 원본 EXPIDMAKA93304
- 대장Jiri Novak
- 루트 (Route)Left point of W Face-NW Ridge
- 최고 도달고도8200m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유악천후 (4)
참가자 6명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jiri Novak | Czechoslovakia | Leader | - | - | - |
| Josef Rakoncaj | Czechoslovakia | Deputy Leader | - | - | - |
| Lobor Hroza | Czechoslovakia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Simone Moro | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Vladimir Mysik | Czechoslovakia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Polando Nicco | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
출처·참고문헌
Hawley, Elizabeth · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Makalu INovak, Jiri · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HJ
· 1993 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420503/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Post-Monsoon-Attempts · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/51/18/expeditions-and-notes-51/ · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·