원정 개요

BC east of Charchung at bottom of face
ABC right under face
C1 on SW Ridge at col past icefall
C2 on SW Ridge
C3 at top of SW Ridge
Biv on West Rib.

From ABC routes diverged with Webster & Dummire to W Rib and others to SW Ridge. For ridge, route goes SE through icefall & SW Ridge itself with no fixed camps but tents at each stopping place set up & taken down as moved up & down. Ridge route not seriously difficult but steep snow made "awkward ground" to climb. On rib route: acclimatized in ridge route & spent 16th & 17th nights at their C1, then on 18th to BC (with sick Beatty). 19th to ABC & at 2 am on 20th up through icefall & just before top of icefall at left to W Rib at c17,600 ft, climbed up ribs summed to below seracs, again left around them one 10m steep "frightening" water ice section to lower angle back on rib for 1st biv at 2:30 pm. 21st straight up rib starting at 8:30 am & biv at platform hacked out of snow & ice at base of serac barriers at base of summit plateau (did 100m pitches). Above 30m steep section/pitch was another pitch of "rotten" snow which did not support any weight. On rib had hardest climb of the route, straight up 10m water ice wall directly above biv & spent whole day on this pitch & resting at new biv which was at SW Ridge C3. 23rd to summit via SW Ridge route & descended SW Ridge to C2 site & biv here because of mtn team "difficulties."

Heinrich climbed partly with rib team, partly alone - had different ideas of safe climbing.