원정 개요

BC at south side of small lake north of Gyazumpa & south of point 5560m on
Schnedier map.

Reached plateau of 6500m which think is top of difficulty, then big storm. Again reached by Giberna and Toso between 10 and 15 Oct. Then again more snow and found ropes buried and had to wait for snow conditions to improve and then on 20 Oct LO said time is up. Also 2 Sherpas sick. Yes [summit] if have 15 more days of good weather.

Technical problems were above C1: snow and ice wall of 350m required fixed ropes finishing with rock wall, very long ridge route.

800m fixed rope on rock and ice ridge above C1.

3 members tried to climb to point 6515m but no success (after Cho Oyu attempt).


Klingendrath - 7 Nov 83

SW - too dangerous from hanging seracs.
SE Face - same only worse avalanche and icefall.
S Ridge - very long but safe. Needs big expedition. Most difficult part is
1st part (to 6500m) on wall of spur; plateau safe if not a lot of snow.
E Ridge also safer, but from Ngojumba.


Khadga, Tourism - 25 Oct 83

Abandoned 20 Oct due to illness of 2 members, shortage of time and bad weather.
19 Oct reached 6400m but could not establish C2 (where not said)
23 Oct scheduled leave BC
All Ok except 25 Sept 5900m