원정 개요

BC near lake at south end of Hinku Nup Glacier
ABC near junction of Hinku Nuptse and Kangtega Glacier
C1 at Kangtega Glacier (snow cave).

Looked at NE Ridge but lot of difficulties with icefalls, so only 2 people could make a successful climb and others of this large group will have to stay in BC. After BC established, one week of snowfall and could do very little. Fixed ropes from C1 on Kangtega Glacier. Route mostly same as New Zealand 1963.

2 left expedition after summitting; Mergheim evacuated by helicopter on 9 Oct.