원정 개요

Too many people from too many teams on same route at same time. "Difficult to manage" because no space on ridge and the difference of the personality and only 3 tents can be pitched at C2 and who will fix which sections of route.

C1 was on tent pitched on 30 Oct but not used till 6th Nov by Grobel and a Sherpa carrying up loads. The only people from this expedition to stay there.

Clemenson and Hamel did not climb much above C1; went to see friends in a village and returned to BC; were not serious about climbing; left BC finally on 9th Nov.

Beautiful route and not too much technical difficulty and little danger.

9th Nov Damilano from BC 3 am to W Face alone; climbed to left of hanging glacier and then night again to go direct to summit; stopped at 4 pm at 6600m, where he reached normal route, then was tired and descended to C2 at 6:30 pm; had wanted to see what he could do on Himalayan face.