원정 개요

1st climbed Palung Ri from SW 20-22 Oct then trekked to Rongbuk, climbed Lingtren from col camp in one day; bad weather kept him in tent 2 days, then up Pumori's E Ridge. Snow deep so had to go slower and avoid crevasses. Biv on descent at 6400m one night. Had reached Tibet via Nangpa La and returned same way, all on trekking permit. Approach to Col from north easy walk and mountain from there appeared to be snow dome with no seracs visible. They may be on NNW face, which Vos did not see. Vos was entirely alone throughout weeks in Tibet, climbing half a dozen peaks.


Erhard Loretan - 24 May 2003

When he led his Swiss-Italian team to Pumori's north side in Spring 2002, they found no pitons on North Face and to descend it without rappelling would be very difficult especially alone; North Face "is not a walk; it's a very difficult climb." Easiest way up from north is up an 85-degree couloir 500m high. Could be a walk up NE Ridge to East Ridge slightly above East Col but there are huge crevasses and seracs. "Alone I would not go."