원정 개요

Fixed rope from C1 to C3 with British-Polish. 14th Oct Beavan and Pierson left C2 for ascent directly up SE Face (not via col) and reached 6700m and bived here without biv equipment. 25th left biv 7 am and 4:30 pm on summit. Slow because snow unconsolidated. Descended SE Ridge to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. 26th they descended SE Ridge to C2 where they arrived at 7 pm. 26th they descended to BC.

Scaturro and Gordon left C3 28th and reached top 1 pm and returned to C3 about 4 pm; 28th down to BC but at c1 pm at 6100m Gordon fell, apparently did not clip in properly and body found by teammates and Brit just above C1 in terms of altitude but in couloir about 100m from C1; body intact but having fallen head over heels, was very badly broken. As soon as Gordon died, climb called off. Body left near where found covered by rocks.

Dubois of UK-Polish team - 8 Nov 93: Brill very good organizer. Americans well organized, well equipped, but members not very experienced and Brill not a professional guide.

Todd, UK-Polish leader - 15 Dec 93: Dubois is a strong person and his judgemant not connected with reality. Brill is an irresponsible leader whom no one should be associated with.