원정 개요

Area of C2 at 6500m looks very safe but after period of strong winds much snow collects and avalanches with disasterous results. C3 established after rest days & bad weather (much fresh snow).

19th Oct first summit bid by Bekrin, Ivanova, Bichenko, Lopatnikov, but only Lopatnikov reached top. Big wind and snow drifts and very cold so only Lopatnikov, who started 40 minutes before them succeeded (he left C3 8:30 am, on top at 4 pm) because no snow to make cave in, only "icehill", strong wind but still no frostbite. Returned to C3 in morning of 20th and afternoon to C2. He took time to find which snowhill was highest point. He saw Austrian's crampon marks and is satisfied both he and Inhoeger reached highest point.

21st next summit bid by Bekrin, Ivanova, Khmiliar and Jadrychinkov, but only Ivanova and Khimiliar to top (at c3 pm); Bekrin too cold. Khmiliar's crampon broke when 100m above C3 [in descent] and moved slowly. When Ivanova looked back after big wind he was absent. All night big snow drifts and think he was blown into falling into dangerous icefall area. Search produced no results. Jadrychnikov had came up to meet them. 22nd after search he and Ivanova, Bekrin slept at 6200m in descent. At 4 am 23rd avalanche struck their tent, which they had brought down from C2, and covered half of it. Bekrin cut open ceiling of tent in 5 minutes from side of tent not covered. They found Jadrychnikov after 20 minutes and he was dead. Body left in broken tent and survivors descended without equipment to C1 at 10 am. Too dangerous from avalanches to go up to recover body (French Manaslu II Sherpas avalanched here but survived). Climb now finished because of avalanche danger.