원정 개요

BC at lower BC
High pont on face near shoulder below plateau.

Bad weather forced team to stay a week in lower BC unable to move on mountain. Often foggy and above C1 though icefall dangerous to climb in fog. C1 pitched 17th, slept in 20th, 25th reached 6000m and left depot. 28th and 29th 2 members by ski to C2. 2nd Oct wanted to try for top without any C3 but lot of snow so 3rd only up from 4700m camp, Kaiser, Schauer and Schultz. these 3 members arrived on 5th at C3 and slept there. 6th Schauer down because sick (had dislocated shoulder and now not strong) 2 members tried to go up but from 7300m stopped because stormy and Schultz lost gloves (taken away by wind). 50m below high point Schultz fell 150m, just before big serac and just before long steep section. Austrian expedition came and helped Kaiser search for Schultz; he reappeared and Austrian doctor took care of him. Took 2 days to get him to 4700m, mostly on his feet and helicopter evacuated him same day, 7th Oct. Climb finished. Actually climbing time finished 2 days earlier.

Daxlberger and Kronast not well also - weak and back problem; Gruber not experienced climber. So only 3 members were climbers. Sherpas sick and unable to ski.