원정 개요

BC at Sabje Khola (north side of a dry glacier)
Depot at south side of dry glacier (slept in occasionally)
C1 on top of 3rd Step on NW Ridge
C2 just below dome
C3 at West Ridge to which NW Ridge has led
High point at final summit ridge.

17th all down to BC for rest. 18th summit party left BC (E Hamer, McAuley and 4 Sherpas in 2 separate teams as E Hamer moved faster than McAuley) and reached C3 20th. 21st all six went for top with E Hamer's party ahead and reached 7400m; turned back when 2 of her Sherpas blown off their feet (but belayed so OK) and frostbite setting in for several climbers. McAuley and 2 Sherpas turned back 7300m when decision taken to stop. All to C3, where birds had pecked their tent and taken food. Hamer party descended to C1 while McAuley stopped at C2. Now realized both woman's toes frostbitten and on 21st both reached depot, where Sherpas carried them to BC on 22nd and on 24th carried to Hongde, from where they flew to PKR and KTM 25th.

Better settled climbing weather is now in November definitely.