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Polish International Expedition to Cho Oyu & Xixabangma

Cho Oyu · 1993 · 가을 (3) · Poland

원정 개요

Completed Polish 1986 ridge route via ridge which is north of Nangpa Gosum ridge on Schneider map but is ridge running west & northwest from summit plateau once and north of Swiss-Kurtyka West Face; very steep South Face. 17th Sept Wielicki and Bianchi placed C2 and started up from there at 2 am of 18th and reached top at 4 pm in deep snow and slept in C2.

22nd Garcia, Pustelnik and Sprutta left C2 in late morning planning to sleep in empty S Korean tent at 7500m; on 23 rested. On 24th Sprutta climbed 100m with other 2, then down with blood circulation problem while others on top and slept in C2 (Portugese) and in ABC that night. Most difficult section in area of rock tower below C2 where fixed 400m total.

* 2 Canadians, Dobbin and Cienski visited Cho Oyu ABC from Nangpa La, for a week went 500m above ABC, but did no substantial climbing and were not true members of this expedition.

  • 내부 원정 ID1256
  • 원본 EXPIDCHOY93307
  • 대장Krzysztof Wielicki
  • 루트 (Route)W Ridge-W Face from N (new line)
  • 최고 도달고도8188m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Krzysztof WielickiPolandLeader성공--
Marco BianchiItalyClimber성공--
Nicholas Jan (Nick) CienskiCanadaMember---
Mike DobbinCanadaMember---
Joao Jose Silva Abranches GarciaPortugalClimber성공--
Piotr Czeslaw PustelnikPolandClimber성공--
Mariusz SpruttaPolandClimber---
Zbigniew TerlikowskiPolandClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Wielicki, Krzysztof · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1993 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199427702/Asia-Tibet-Cho-Oyu-and-Shisha-Pangma-New-Routes · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·